We Found A Temple Built In 1337
Wat Thian Tawai is a historic, ancient Buddhist temple in Ban Mai, Pathumthani, on the edge of the Chao Phraya River, it is highly regarded by for its peaceful atmosphere, unique folklore, and historical significance, as well as being off the tourist trail.
We discovered this while researching a nearby old abandoned temple called Wat Chettawong , and the contrast between the two places couldn’t be more stark.
Why We Went There
We were intrigued by the idea of such an ancient temple still being a functioning one and wanted to see the historic buildings and how well preserved they are, and we did, but we also found much more.
Wat Thian Tawi isn’t a museum, but a living modern complex with some beautiful architecture, a thriving monastery, and also a long and important history. The two facets fit together really well.
Ancient Origins & The Legend of the Name
According to historical records, the temple was founded by King Uthong around 1337 C.E. at the tail end of the Sukhothai era, after fleeing from a cholera outbreak he settled here with many of his people.
Legend says that at night the encampment was illuminated by candles lit on their travelling carts. Once the temple was established, it was initially named Wat Kwian Sawai (“Temple of the Illuminating Carts”), which eventually evolved into Wat Thian Tawai (“Offering of the Candles”).
Other old tales say that a highly revered monk, Phra Thammanusari, had such immense spiritual charisma and discipline that if drunks entered the temple grounds, they would instantly sober up. This evolved into giving the temple the nickname of “Wat Lao Chuet”, meaning “Tasteless Liquor Temple.”
History has a way of exaggerating stories from the past so we will never know what the truth is, but it’s fun to imagine that.
Historical Architecture & Sacred Artifacts
The temple features two beautifully preserved old wooden chapels dating back to the late Ayutthaya period. The front gable of the Viharn features detailed traditional stucco artwork depicting mythical Vidyadhara angels emerging from flowers, surrounded by intricate Thai kanok patterns.
Unfortunately the interior is closed off, with just the bricks of a pedestal for a missing Buddha image being all that remains inside. But it’s still an incredible piece of history in the heart of Wat Thian Tawai.
Right next to it at right angles is the old ordination hall from roughly the same period, guarded by two Yuks (mythical giants). you will find a large principal Buddha statue in the meditation posture, alongside a rare tall Buddha statue in the Palilayaka posture, representing the Buddha being tended to by an elephant and a monkey.
There is a row of sitting Buddha images wearing robes along the right hand side of this small chapel, with stands of layered flowers in an almost umbrella like style. The walls are plain white although some reports say there were murals here at one time.
Both of these ancient icons feature dark carved woodwork of flowers as well as mythical beasts such as Nagas and Makaras. The high-pitched timber roofs have exposed beams and simple decorative panels typical of that period.
A distinctive Twelve-Cornered Chedi stands close by containing holy relics of the Buddha as well as the remains of the temple’s ancestral abbots.
Nearby are the monks quarters, mostly in modern style but there are a few alleyways with some quite old wooden structures too. We didn’t venture into them out of respect for the monks’ privacy.
Modern Worship & Festivals
A large new and very impressive Viharn towers over the back of the ancient ones, but it seems to fit in, and the exterior is stunning. Regrettably it was closed while we were there.
In recent years, the temple has become famous for its huge statue of Luang Pu Thuad, one of Thailand’s most revered historical monks. They host annual festivals dedicated to him, attracting devotees from all over the province to make merit, drape saffron robes on the statue, and pray for protection and good fortune.
Why You Should Go
Outside of holidays and festivals its an authentic, quiet escape from the crowds typically found at city temples, and highly recommended. There’s quite a lot to see and enjoy, and you’ll experience a timeline from the late Ayuddhya period right through to the present day – perfect for instagram and tiktok!
You can also relax by the riverside if it’s dry, and not too hot, to watch the riverine traffic passing by at a casual pace.
Facilities: There are toilets, but not easily found. They (when we were there) had no food stalls in the compound or outside, so bring drinking water with you, and eat on the main street not too far away. There’s plenty of parking in different areas, and you’ll still need to do plenty of walking as the compound is pretty big.
If You Have disabilities: If you use a wheelchair you can get to see most of the interesting areas, but access to a huge Luang Por statue is not for you. If you having limited walking abilities and a car, I’d recommend driving carefully between each area, otherwise it’s a lot of footwork.There are no disabled friendly toilets that we could see. The nearest clean ones will be at a PTT fuel station on the main road.
Getting There
Wat Thian Tawai is just a short drive northwest of the Rangsit area. If you are traveling by public transport from Bangkok or nearby areas, local bus lines 367 (Rangsit – Pak Kret / Nonthaburi) and 1057 drop passengers right near the temple’s entrance. Google maps can give directions if you search for “Wat Tiantawai”