Naga Raja Dharma Park
This incredible Naga Raja Dharma Park (see below all about Nagas) is part of an ongoing development at Wat Don Yai that has recently become a social media sensation gaining a lot of attention, and attracting hordes of visitors.
Guardian Serpents Everywhere
We went there more than a year ago when construction was in it’s early stages, but now it looks a lot more advanced, and thrilling, with over 50% of construction work completed, which includes caves, a cliff with chedi along the top and waterfalls dropping over dozens of fierce Nagas, with many more huge, long serpents curled and guarding a large standing Buddha.
A long entrance way, also guarded by two large imposing Nagas, is lined with flower displays and made up of silver arches of Nagas leading to the main Naga area, with a number of rest areas (or photo op spaces) on each side. There are three cartoon style Nagas, called Chao Nang Noi, Chao Khun Noi, and Chao Sua Noi. Unfortunately they look completely out of place but no doubt there for selfies with children.
The park is not actually at Wat Don Yai, but if you arrive there by whatever means they have a fleet of free shuttle buses to get you to the park about 800 meters away on the other side of Klong 8 Road. Entrance is free but there are donation boxes and ways to aid the temple with this massive project.
It can get hot very quickly, although there are umbrellas free to use. There’s also a couple of stalls selling drinks and snacks, so make sure to keep hydrated. Carry a bottle of water if you can.
About Wat Don Yai
Founded in 1910 by local residents next to Lamlukka Klong 8 as a fairly modest country temple surrounded by rice fields, it remained that way for well over 100 years. In more recent years it has been transformed from a quiet place of meditation and worship into a spiritual tourism center.
It really began with the completion around 2018 of an astonishingly eye catching Silver Chapel (Ubosot Ngern): This is arguably the temple’s most famous feature. It is the only silver chapel in Pathumthani, designed to represent purity. It is often referred to as the “Silver Chapel in Pathum Thong.” as it rests on a giant golden lotus. You can see the sun glinting off the silver roof from a considerable distance on a clear day.
Inside the silver chapel sits a massive, beautiful and unusually all white Buddha statue in a meditation posture, called Somdet Phra Suwannapatum. Locals often call him Luang Pho Jai Dee Mang Mee Sri Suk, and many visit specifically to pray for success and fulfillment. This interior for quite a while was uncluttered with little decoration, just illuminated for easy medication without distractions. Now there’s been a lot of large objects placed inside which detract from the serenity it used to have.
There’s a quieter area behind the Ubosot, monks quarters, and other buildings, next to Lamlukka Klong 8, although it’s not very picturesque.
Nagas In Culture And Religion
The relationship between the Phaya Nak (Naga) and Buddhism in Thailand is a profound blend of ancient animism, Hindu mythology, and Buddhist scripture. In Thailand, the Naga is not just a mythical serpent; it is considered the Guardian of the Dhamma.
The most famous link comes from the life of the Buddha. It is said that during the sixth week after his enlightenment, a great storm broke out. The Naga King Mucalinda emerged from the earth and coiled his body beneath the Buddha, lifting him above the floodwaters, and spread his multi-headed hood like a canopy to shield him from the rain. This is a common image in temples and shrines.
In Thai architecture, Nagas are almost always the guardians of the entrance to the Ubosot (ordination hall).
Naga bodies often form the handrails of temple stairs. This symbolizes the Naga acting as a bridge between the human realm and the divine realm (the temple), mirroring the belief that Nagas can travel between the underworld and the heavens.
The “Nak” (Naga) in Ordination
One of the most unique cultural links is the term for a monk-to-be: “Nak.” Before a man is ordained as a monk, he is called a Nak and wears white robes.
Myth says a Naga once transformed into a human to ordain as a monk because it loved the Buddha’s teachings. However, while sleeping, it reverted to its serpent form. The Buddha explained that only humans could ordain. Heartbroken, the Naga asked that all future candidates for the monkhood be named “Nak” in its honour.
Spiritually, the Naga represents the unrefined energy of the earth and the subconscious. By serving the Buddha, the Naga symbolizes the “taming” of wild nature through the path of Dhamma. It represents a being that is not yet enlightened but is a devoted “Protector of the Faith.”
Getting There: For Google Maps search “Wat Don Yai Lamlukka” or “วัดดอนใหญ่ ลำลูกกา”, it’s easier if you have your own transport, or coming from Bangkok take the BTS Sukhumvit Line going north to the end of the line at Khu Khot station, then get a taxi or call a Grab or Lineman car – it’s still quite ride from the station.
Wat Don Yai is on Klong 8 Road, Lamlukka District, Pathumthani in a semi rural location.
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